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仰望星空派
英語：Stargazy pie
準備上桌的仰望星空派
別稱Starrey gazey pie
上菜順序主食
起源地英國
地區康沃爾郡Mousehole（英語：Mousehole）
上菜溫度熱
主要成分Pilchards（英語：Pilchards）

仰望星空派（英語：Stargazy pie，亦作英語：starrey gazey pie）是英國康沃爾地區的一種傳統美食，由沙丁魚搭配馬鈴薯和雞蛋，上敷起酥麵皮烤制而成。儘管還有一些使用其他魚類做料理的版本，普遍而言，仰望星空派最為獨特之處即是魚頭（或魚尾）向上穿出酥皮，呈仰望天空之狀。

長久以來，仰望星空派的起源地被認為是康沃爾西南端的毛斯爾村（Mousehole village），用於慶祝當地的傳統節日「湯姆鮑考克之夜」（英語：Tom Bawcock's Eve），以紀念這位村民在暴風驟雨的冬夜出海捕魚的英雄壯舉。在「湯姆鮑考克之夜」當天，村民會用彩燈打造出仰望星空派造型的燈飾，而根據此節日活動可知，湯姆當夜出海的全部收穫，總共七種魚類，用於烤製出巨型仰望星空派後，幫助、解救村民度過饑荒。 有證據表明，節日的源頭可能更加久遠，甚至先於基督教的傳入。而湯姆鮑考克的故事能廣為人知，則歸因於Antonia Barber所創作的兒童繪本 The Mousehole Cat，而該繪本便是以「仰望星空派」的由來為一大特點。 2007年，選手Mark Hix更用一種仰望星空派，在英國廣播公司所主辦的「大英選單」節目（Great British Menu）贏得勝利。

描述

編輯

仰望星空派是一道以油酥麵糰為基底，且傳統上使用整尾沙丁魚填滿的鮮魚派。值得注意的是，每尾沙丁魚都必須保留下牠們的魚頭，好穿出上層的油酥餅皮，這樣才能呈現出昂首仰望星空的景象。 這樣魚的擺放方式，能讓烹煮過程中釋出的油脂倒流回派中，除了可以增添更飽滿的風味，更可以確保整個派得以維持濕潤[1]。名主廚 Rick Stein，則建議：也可以嘗試讓沙丁魚的魚尾穿出派面，以營造出魚兒躍出水面的畫面[2]。 儘管British Food Trust將仰望星空派形容成對於兒童而言，不僅有趣而且十分俱有娛樂性的料理[1]，但它仍然被 New York Daily News 根據美國作家Neil Setchfield的一本著作，將其列為「噁心！真的有人在吃的噁心食物」之一[3][4]。 另外，在一段重新演繹過的傳說故事裡，仰望星空派在「湯姆鮑考克之夜」的有些時候，只能在毛斯爾當地唯一一家酒吧──The Ship Inn，才能享用得到[5]。

起源

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"Merry place you may believe, Tiz Mouzel 'pon Tom Bawcock's eve

To be there then who wouldn't wesh, to sup o' sibm soorts o' fish
When morgy brath had cleared the path, Comed lances for a fry
And then us had a bit o' scad an' Starry-gazie pie
As aich we'd clunk, E's health we drunk, in bumpers bremmen high,

And when up caame Tom Bawcock's name, We'd prais'd 'un to the sky"
Traditionally sung on Tom Bawcock's Eve[6]

仰望星空派起源於康沃爾西南端的漁村Mousehole。s with many parts of Cornish heritage, a legend has appeared about its origins. 這種派是為了紀念Tom Bawcock的過人勇氣。Tom Bawcock是16世紀的當地漁民。根據傳說，一個暴風雨不斷的冬天，由於反常的猛烈暴風雨，漁船無法出海。耶誕將至，以魚類為主要食物來源的村民卻饑寒交迫。[6]

12月23日，Tom Bawcock 決定在風暴中駕船出海。在惡劣的天氣和呼嘯的海浪中，他成功捕回足夠全村食用的魚。全部收穫烤製成一個大派，這七種魚的魚頭衝破表面的酥皮The entire catch (including seven types of fish) was baked into a pie, which had the fish heads poking through to prove that there were fish inside. 從此，12月23日成為漁村的節日，the Tom Bawcock's Eve festival is held on 23 December in Mousehole. 在晚間的慶典期間，村民會抬着巨派遊行，手提手工燈籠，然後將派享用，以紀念湯姆的壯舉。[6][7][8]

An older feast, held by the fishermen towards the end of December, included a pie cooked with different fish to represent the variety of catches the men hoped to achieve in the coming year. There is a possibility that Tom Bawcock's Eve is an evolution of this festival.[9] Since 1963, the festival has been run against the backdrop of the Mousehole village illuminations, 燈塔會燈火通明，其他活動[10] One set of lights even represents the pie itself, showing fish heads and tails protruding from a pie dish underneath six stars.[11]

有傳言說，這一節日只是當地旅館Ship inn在1950年代炮製的。然而，早在1927年的《老康沃爾》 雜誌中，Morton Nance, an author on the 康沃爾語就已經記載了這一節日。他認為，這一節日在20世紀之前就已經存在，儘管他懷疑湯姆的真實性，並提出這個人名源於"Beau Coc"。他同時在書中肯定這一節日起源於基督教傳入之前，然而仰望星空派何時成為節日的一部分卻無從考證。Morton Nance 還傳統歌曲，went on to restore the traditional song sung on Tom Bawcock's Eve, played to the local tune "wedding March".[12]

烹飪方法

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仰望星空派，沙丁魚看上去像望向天空。放入烤箱烘培之前的仰望星空派

傳說中最早的仰望星空派包括sand eel（英語：sand eel）、horse mackerel（英語：horse mackerel）pilchards、鯡魚、dogfish and 魣鱈 along with a seventh fish。而傳統的仰望行空派的主要材料是沙丁魚，有時mackerel or herring也可作為替代。Richard Stevenson, chef at The Ship Inn in Mousehole, 任何白肉魚類均可以作為原料，with pilchards or herring just added for the presentation. 。為食用方便，備料時魚身要先去鱗去骨，而保留完整頭尾。其他傳統配料包括濃縮牛奶、雞蛋和著熟的馬鈴薯。[13]

仰望星空派還有添加其他原料的變種，包括煮雞蛋、培根、洋蔥、芥末或白葡萄酒之類。有一些版本中，魚肉甚至可以改為crayfish and 兔肉或羊肉。無論底料如何，正宗的仰望星空派的表面一定要覆蓋麵皮，通常shortcrust，但有時puff pastry, 魚頭、偶爾是魚尾從中穿出來。[13]

由於擺盤的需要，建議將沙丁魚尾部向心排列，這樣頭部可以朝向四周的邊緣伸出。由於有麵皮和土豆作為主食，仰望星空派可以單獨食用，也可搭配麵包或蔬菜。檸檬碎。Other suggested accompaniments are Cornish Yarg, Rhubarb chutney, poached eggs or a slice of lemon.[13][14]

在流行文化中

編輯

The Mousehole Cat

編輯

The children's book The Mousehole Cat by Antonia Barber is inspired by Tom Bawcock's Eve. It is the story of Tom Bawcock and his loyal black and white cat, Mowzer, setting sail to catch the fish. When the boat hits the storm, it is represented by a giant "Storm-Cat", allowing Mowzer to eventually save the day by soothing the storm with her purring. This purring becomes a song and while the Storm-Cat is resting Tom is able to haul in his catch and return to the village. When they arrive back at the village, the entire catch is baked into a "Star-Gazy" pie, on which the villagers feast. Notably, Antonia Barber points out that stargazy pie was a staple of Mousehole diet before Tom's heroic fishing expedition, however, whereas according to tradition it dates from his return and legendary catch.[15]

Great British Menu和Mark Hix

編輯

The main course of the second series of the Great British Menu was won by Mark Hix, head chef at The Ivy in London, with a variation on stargazy pie.[16] Instead of the traditional pilchards, 兔肉和淡水龍蝦 for the filling, 並將蝦頭穿出酥皮表面。As the winning main course, the pie was served along with the other winning courses at an Ambassador's dinner at the 巴黎的英國大使館的大使晚宴 in Paris.[16][17]評委還破例選擇了他的甜點，使其成為節目歷史上唯一的主菜和甜點雙料冠軍。Mark Hix had previously created a similar version of the dish for a festival aimed at increasing the use of 羊肉. His 他的羊肉龍蝦仰望星空派製成於2006年，並一度在他的餐館推出這道菜。[18]

惡魔與仰望星空派

編輯

根據另一段傳說，仰望星空派和其他康沃爾地區的奇葩派使得魔鬼從來不敢進入康沃爾。

Robert Hunt（英語：Robert Hunt (scientist)）在他所著的康沃爾傳統叢書《Popular romances of the west of England; or, The drolls, traditions, and superstitions of old Cornwall》中解釋道，惡魔曾經穿過塔馬河來到托波因特。此章節名為「The Devil's Coits, etc」，原因是當惡魔看到這些派後，發現康沃爾人做派無所不用其極，並決定在被他們做成「魔鬼派」之前逃離，回到德文郡。[19][20]

其他

編輯

• The BBC miniseries Poldark featured Cornish couple Demelza and Ross Poldark eating a stargazy pie.
• Ladies in Lavender, 設定於康沃爾，was also set in Cornwall and featured a stargazy pie.
• The dish was also featured on the ITV show, Britain's Best Dish.
• In the children's book, The Lighthouse Keeper's Cat by Ronda and David Armitage, the protagonist's favourite dish is stargazy pie, and he is rewarded with one at the end.[21]
• The American rock band, The Silver Seas (under their previous name The Bees U.S.) released an album called Starry Gazey Pie. The album and titular track were based upon a recipe in a cookbook which band member Daniel Tashian remembered from his childhood.[22]
• A stargazy pie appears in the film adaptation of James and the Giant Peach.
• 仰望星空派為英國廣播公司電視系列節目天空之派的第二季第三部增添了戲劇色彩。劇中的新手主廚為了讓他的晚餐引人注目，準備了他個人版本的仰望星空派，結果卻一塌糊塗。
• This culinary creation has been presented in Chinese media as a dish that "has come to epitomise British cuisine in Chinese eyes".[23]

參見

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參考資料

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  1. ^ 1.0 1.1 Stargazey pie. The British Food Trust. [7 January 2011]. 
  2. ^ Stein, Rick. Rick Stein's Food Heroes. BBC Books. 2005. ISBN 0-563-52175-9. 
  3. ^ Yuck! disgusting things people eat (number 9). New York Daily News. 24 August 2010 [7 January 2011]. 
  4. ^ Setchfield, Neil. Yuck! The things people eat. Merrell. 2010. ISBN 1-85894-524-0. 
  5. ^ Berry, Oliver; Dixon, Belinda. Devon, Cornwall & South West England. Lonely Planet. 2008: 48 [7 January 2011]. ISBN 1-74104-873-7. 
  6. ^ 6.0 6.1 6.2 The Story of Tom Bawcock. BBC News. 2 December 2009 [7 January 2011]. 
  7. ^ Kent, Michael. Cornwall from the Coast Path. Alison Hodge Publishers. 2008: 103. ISBN 0-906720-68-0. 
  8. ^ Trewin, Carol; Woolfitt, Adam. Gourmet Cornwall. Alison Hodge Publishers. 2005: 16. ISBN 0-906720-39-7. 
  9. ^ Paston-Williams, Sara. Fish: Recipes from a Busy Island. National Trust Books. 2006: 21 [7 January 2011]. ISBN 1-905400-07-1. 
  10. ^ Mousehole village illuminations. BBC News. 12 November 2009 [7 January 2011]. 
  11. ^ Mousehole comes to life with light. BBC. [7 January 2011]. 
  12. ^ Deane, Troy; Shaw, Tony. The folklore of Cornwall. Batsford. 1975. ISBN 0-7134-3037-0. 
  13. ^ 13.0 13.1 13.2 Trewing, Carol; Woolfitt, Adam. Cornish Fishing and Seafood. Alison Hodge Publishers. 2006: 243 [7 January 2011]. ISBN 0-906720-42-7. 
  14. ^ Stargazy pie. Britain's Best Dish. ITV. [7 January 2011]. 
  15. ^ Cohn, Amy. Children's Books: The Mousehole Cat. The New York Times. 10 March 1991 [7 January 2011]. 
  16. ^ 16.0 16.1 Stacey, Caroline. Mark Hix serves up a seasonal feast. The Times. 11 October 2008 [7 January 2011]. 
  17. ^ Dugan, Emily. Champion of British food dominates the 'Great British Menu'. The Independent. 8 June 2007 [7 January 2011]. 
  18. ^ Mutton gambols back on the menu. BBC News. 1 October 2006 [7 January 2011]. 
  19. ^ Hunt, Robert. Popular romances of the west of England; or, The drolls, traditions, and superstitions of old Cornwall. JC Hotten. 1871: 185–186. 
  20. ^ Croxford, Bob. From Cornwall with love. Dundurn Press. 1993. ISBN 0-9521850-0-8. 
  21. ^ Armitage, Ronda; Armitage, David. The Lighthous Keeper's Cat. Scholastic. 1997. ISBN 0-590-13260-1. 
  22. ^ The Bees (U.S.): 'Starry Gazey Pie'. NPR Music. 20 January 2008 [7 January 2011]. 
  23. ^ http://www.bbc.com/news/blogs-china-blog-27442398

外部連結

編輯
 
維基教科書的食譜有以下內容：Stargazy Pie
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